Mercado de San Miguel

Built in 1916 as the city's first covered market, this iron structure was bought by private investors in 2003 and reopened in 2009 as a temple to high-end Spanish food.

Look up to admire the restored iron framework and glass roof. Then wander the counter stalls: grab a plate of jamón, a glass of vermouth, and stand at one of the central high tables. Go early evening for the best buzz.